by Gigi Wahba

Ed. NOTE – We ran only a portion of this article in January, as we missed content on additional pages. This article contains the second part of Gigi's trip with stays at Servas member homes. TIP - There are many photos ... click on ones you wish to see in a larger size.

I spent September and October traveling around the Iberian Peninsula.  I began in Porto and spent 14 days walking the Camino Portuguese, a historic pilgrimage route that follows both coastal and inland paths to eventually reach Santiago de Compostela, a UNESCO site.

I traveled solo and stayed in dormitory hostels where there was ample opportunity to socialize but typically at a superficial level: Where are you from?  What language can we speak together? Do you have blisters?... etc.

The second part of my trip I visited Salamanca, Madrid and Sevilla.  In these towns I stayed with SERVAS hosts and took day tours of surrounding towns: Segovia, Toledo, Ronda and Setenil de las Bodegas. 

In each home, I was warmly greeted, fed and spent many hours visiting, both in their home and around the towns. It was wonderful to get to speak English again!  While I can get by in Spanish, I missed the deeper conversations that come with fluency. 

My host in Salamanca lived just outside of the old town. Her balcony had a fabulous view. Her neighborhood was special in that they had an ongoing beautification project that hired local muralists.

It’s easy to walk around the small, old town.  I recommend climbing the Leronimus Tower to get great views, particularly of the old and “new” cathedrals that are built next to each other.  The Plaza Mayor is a must visit; it’s especially lively at night.  The areas beyond the UNESCO sites are quite lovely, especially by the river.

Note - Click on photos for larger view

Madrid reminded me of Paris.  Lots of bustling people and traffic, beautiful old buildings, remnants of mighty colonial days, fast talkers, public demonstrations, beautiful parks and art.

My host lived in a nondescript building, but her apartment was stunning--modern, open, well-lit with two balconies.  One had fake grass and beach chairs, which I found quite amusing.  We went out for the evening around 5:00 and stayed out till 11:00, taking the Metro downtown and then walking around.  We came across street performers, a protest march having to do with cancer treatment mess-ups, beautiful plazas, great paella and sunset at the Temple of Debod.  I highly recommend the Museo Reina Sofia which houses contemporary art. -- Picasso’s Guernica is there, now. 

Finally, beautiful Seville! 

My host was in the old Santa Cruz barrio.  Narrow streets with tiled murals everywhere. Her apartment had a beautiful courtyard and rooftop terrace.  We met at the University where she teaches.  Plaza de España is a must see. Moorish influence is visible throughout the city. I stopped for Tapas at a restaurant that clearly had excitement about Spain’s bullfighting heritage.

In the evening, my host and I rode bicycles along the river paths, got dinner at one of her college hangouts followed by a trip to an heladeria (ice cream shop).  We enjoyed great conversation on topics from farming to politics to art. It was wonderful!